36 Hours in Tokyo: MaryMar in Japan Part 4

The final stretch of my Japan trip was a whirlwind mix of pottery, travel, and inspiration. After firing the anagama kiln in Tokoname, we explored the pottery towns of Shigaraki and Seto before heading back to unload and clean the kiln — a labor-intensive but rewarding process. With my freshly fired pieces (and a suitcase full of new ceramics), I wrapped up the trip with 2 days in Tokyo, soaking up the energy of Shibuya, reconnecting with friends, and finding fresh inspiration for my next limited-edition line.

Opening the Kiln

The final stretch of my Japan trip was a whirlwind in the best way. While waiting for the kiln to cool we spent a few days exploring Shigaraki and Seto, home to the very clay we worked with. We returned to Tokoname ready to unload the anagama kiln and what sounds like a simple task is anything but. The heat that builds up inside during firing creates quite a labor-intensive unload and clean up.

Most pieces emerge intact but a few inevitably fall victim to the flame, melting or warping beyond saving. Each pot rests on small balls of alumina called wadding, which we apply before placing them on the kiln shelves. These often need to be chipped or ground off after the firing, and some are stuck on with drippy ash glaze with no way to remove them without damaging the piece. In addition to unloading, we needed to clean every shelf and kiln post, chisel, sweep and vacuum the kiln chamber, and reset the kiln shed for the next firing. 

We laid out the finished pieces in the yard in the same order they were stacked in the kiln to get an idea of the flame’s path and see how heat and ash affected the work. Some pieces had the most exquisite natural ash glazing…others, not so much. The top of the kiln didn’t reach peak temperature unfortunately, so a few pieces were sacrificed to the kiln gods making the decision of what to bring home a little easier.

I still had to buy an extra suitcase not only for the pieces I made, but also for all the pottery I purchased. If you’ve ever been to my house, you know my ceramic obsession runs deep.

Before leaving Tokoname, I shipped my suitcases ahead to Narita Airport using one of the most genius services Japan offers (Yamoto). With my bags sorted, I hopped a train to Tokyo with a small bag in tow for 2 days in Tokyo — a fast and furious 36-hour adventure packed with sights, food, and inspiration.

2 Days in Tokyo

It was my first time in Tokyo and 36 hours is barely enough time to scratch the surface, but I booked a stay in Shibuya to get a full dose of energy. I met up with my Japanese friend Keiko for an unforgettable lunch at Noda, owned by Chef Yuki Noda, a longtime MMclay supporter who purchased tableware from me back in 2017. It was a joy to reunite, see MMclay pottery in use in Japan, and meet his lovely mother and team. I brought two freshly fired sake cups from our firing as a gift, and he used them to serve us sake during one of the 14 incredible courses he made for us. It was deeply touching to see my work woven into such a beautiful and thoughtful dining experience. The full-circle moment of pottery, food, and presentation is what it is all about for me.

After parting ways with Keiko, I spent the rest of my time wandering Shibuya. The people-watching alone is worth the trip. Tokyo fashion is on another level. The Shibuya Scramble lives up to its reputation, and the stores are packed with top-tier Japanese denim and avant-garde design. It was a dramatic contrast to the quiet pottery villages I had just left and somehow, the perfect ending to my incredible experience.

I’m beyond grateful for this experience — from the pottery villages to 2 days in Tokyo, it left me inspired in ways I’m just beginning to realize and explore. I’m already sketching out a limited edition, Japanese inspired line of tea bowls and sake cups, with more ideas percolating. In Japan, handmade ceramics are everywhere from humble roadside noodle shops to Michelin-starred restaurants. This is how it should be. Pottery there is “special but not precious,” a phrase that I use often when describing MMclay tableware. It’s made to be used, lived with, and treasured over time.

Thank you to my dear friends, to my incredible staff and to my husband and kiddos who made this journey possible. I’m beyond excited to find out how this experience will unfold in my work.

Stay tuned for Part 5, where I’ll share a roundup of my favorite spots from the trip including where to visit, where to eat, and a few personal likes and dislikes.